At Avena, we’re passionate about driving sustainability across industries, and the UK fashion and textile industry is no exception. This September, the UK Fashion and Textile Association (UKFT) held its annual Sustainability Conference, highlighting pressing issues within the industry and the latest innovative solutions to tackle them. From the introduction of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) systems to the Circular Fashion Innovation Network (CFIN), it’s clear that the industry is moving toward a future of circularity, responsible design, and waste reduction.
Let’s explore the key takeaways from the event and why they matter to both businesses and consumers alike!
Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR): The Future of Fashion Waste Management
One of the major themes of the conference was the introduction of an industry-led EPR system for fashion and textiles. With the UK being the highest consumer of new clothes in Europe, there is an urgent need to tackle the low product usage and high levels of waste generated by the fashion industry.
EPR is designed to incentivise brands and retailers to adopt circular economy principles by holding producers accountable for the end-of-life management of their products. This includes strategies for reuse, repair, and recycling. By shifting the responsibility upstream, the goal is to drive change in how fashion items are designed, produced, and ultimately discarded.
UKFT’s EPR Data Sandbox Project is particularly exciting. The project aims to create a flexible EPR system that can adapt to new technologies, retail systems, and consumer behaviours. By working with garment producers to assess data on fibre composition and types, the project hopes to unlock various levers for a market-based EPR system, which could be a game-changer for the fashion industry.
This system promises to shift industry thinking toward sustainability by incentivising reuse, remanufacturing, and recycling, strategies that align with Avena’s core commitment of zero waste to landfill.
Circular Fashion Innovation Network (CFIN): Collaboration for a Sustainable Future
In addition to EPR, the conference also introduced the Circular Fashion Innovation Network (CFIN), an initiative supported by UKFT, the British Fashion Council (BFC), and UK Research and Innovation (UKRI). The goal? To bring about industrial-scale change through circularity and innovation.
This is a necessary move for an industry that is responsible for 5-10% of global emissions and 20% of global water pollution. With consumption in the UK at an all-time high, coupled with low usage rates and large amounts of textile waste, it’s clear that new models are required to bring about sustainable transformation.
The CFIN Working Groups have outlined six key areas where they aim to make an impact:
- Circular Business Models – Reducing waste and overproduction by embedding circular practices into business models.
- Recycling Infrastructure – Optimising closed-loop recycling systems and laying the groundwork for EPR implementation.
- Sustainable Manufacturing – Lowering environmental impact by improving supply chain resilience and introducing traceability tools.
- Novel Technologies – Scaling up technologies that can support circular fashion.
- Diverse and Future-Proof Workforce – Up skilling talent to close skills gaps and build a more sustainable industry.
- Green Growth – Creating economically viable circular fashion products and services that support high-value job creation.
The Circular Fashion Innovation Network provides the collaborative platform needed to push for more meaningful, long-term solutions. By integrating novel technology and strengthening the workforce, the UK fashion and textiles industry is taking decisive steps to meet its NetZero targets and create a greener future.
Key Challenges and Opportunities in EPR
Several speakers at the conference highlighted the challenges of transitioning to an EPR system. One significant hurdle is ensuring that all players in the fashion supply chain, from manufacturers to retailers, can fairly adopt these practices. This was particularly echoed by brands like M&S, John Smedley, and New Look, who shared their experiences of navigating sustainability challenges, such as reducing waste and overproduction.
There are important questions to consider: How do we ensure that the financial burden of EPR doesn’t fall disproportionately on smaller producers or consumers? How can we incentivise the reuse, refurbishment, and resale of textile products without making the system too complex?
These discussions are vital as they directly influence the future of sustainable textiles in the UK. At Avena, we’re keen to support businesses grappling with these questions by providing secure, environmentally friendly destruction services that fit seamlessly into their circular economy strategies. Our zero waste to landfill commitment means that businesses can be confident their end-of-life textiles are managed responsibly, without contributing to environmental harm.
What Are Other Countries Doing?
Looking abroad, we see that other countries are also implementing Extended Producer Responsibility systems to tackle fashion waste. For example, France and the Netherlands have already rolled out their own EPR models. However, there are lessons to be learned from their experiences. In France, the reporting process has proven to be cumbersome for producers, while the Dutch system, which is based on garment weight, may inadvertently push brands to produce lighter garments to avoid higher costs. These international insights are invaluable as the UK refines its approach.
A key challenge with EPR, as discussed by speakers like Libby Peake from Green Alliance, is ensuring the system is fair for everyone. If the cost of sustainability falls disproportionately on consumers, particularly those in lower-income brackets, it may not achieve its desired outcome. EPR fees should be designed to reflect the environmental harm of products, but they also need to be balanced in a way that doesn’t penalise low-income consumers.
Insights from Major Brands: What’s Working?
Several leading brands, including Marks & Spencer (M&S), New Look, and John Smedley, shared their experiences with their sustainable fashion initiatives. M&S, for instance, partnered with SOJO to encourage customers to repair garments rather than throw them away. This is an exciting example of how brands can educate consumers on extending the life of their clothing while reducing waste.
John Smedley also demonstrated the long-term value of high-quality, sustainable fashion by showcasing how a 22-year-old garment was recently repaired and returned to a customer. These examples highlight the importance of designing products that last, and ensuring there are systems in place for repair and refurbishment.
The Role of Consumer Perception
As we think about the future of sustainability in fashion, it’s important to consider the role of consumer perception. According to research shared at the conference, 58% of consumers believe that producers are most responsible for the environmental impact of fashion. This indicates a clear growing demand for cleaner production methods.
Interestingly, data from the EPR Sandbox Project shows that 97% of stakeholders believe products should be designed for recycling, while 95% say they should be easy to repair. These findings underscore the need for producers to prioritise durability and recyclability in their product designs to meet consumer expectations.
Looking Ahead: The Future of Circular Fashion
As the UKFT Sustainability Conference demonstrated, the future of fashion is circular. With initiatives like EPR, CFIN, and innovative brand partnerships, the fashion and textile industry is taking meaningful steps toward reducing its environmental impact. But it’s not just about policy or technology, it’s about collaboration between government, businesses, and consumers to create a system that works for everyone.
Whilst there are incredible and innovative attempts within the industry to capture garments once they reach end of life, there is clearly a need for many brands and manufacturers to adopt a solution to recycle textile waste (such as cutoffs) along with garments that are classed as old stock or no longer within season.
At Avena, we’re excited to see how these changes unfold, and we’re committed to supporting businesses on their journey to sustainability. Through secure destruction services we’re here to help our partners achieve their green goals, ensuring that no waste goes to landfill and that the fashion industry can truly embrace the circular economy.
Why This Matters for Our Customers
For those of you who may not be directly involved in fashion, you might wonder how this relates to your business. The answer lies in the bigger picture of sustainability. EPR and circularity are not just fashion industry buzzwords; they represent a broader shift towards more responsible production and waste management that will eventually touch every sector.
At Avena, we’re proud to be part of this movement. Whether it’s textiles, paper, or IT hardware, our mission is to help businesses reduce their environmental impact by securely and sustainably managing their waste. By staying ahead of key developments like the UKFT’s EPR system and the Circular Fashion Innovation Network, we ensure that our customers can meet both current and future regulatory demands, while also contributing to a more sustainable economy.
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